- #SIG SAUER 22 SRDX SUPPRESSOR DISASSMBLY HOW TO#
- #SIG SAUER 22 SRDX SUPPRESSOR DISASSMBLY FREE#
Wet tumbling uses a rotating barrel containing a solvent and media (usually stainless steel pins).
#SIG SAUER 22 SRDX SUPPRESSOR DISASSMBLY HOW TO#
Wet tumbling is another option for how to clean a suppressor. Ultrasonic cleaners and other solvents will degrade the O-ring material, so remove these if you opt to use solvents or ultrasonic cleaners. A gentle wipe down and lube allow O-rings to function properly. O-rings: These little guys are almost always located between the booster housing and the piston.
Once the housing is cleaned, lubricate it and reassemble the booster.
#SIG SAUER 22 SRDX SUPPRESSOR DISASSMBLY FREE#
It is very important the interface between the piston and housing is free of any debris to allow the piston to seat correctly. Remove the piston and booster spring from the boost housing, wipe them clean and apply a light coat of lubricant.
Boosters : Boosters and pistons are the only moving parts in a silencer, and as such will require some maintenance to function. Threads : A few passes with a brush and a light solvent and your suppressors threads will be spick-and-span, just make sure there is no debris on the threads. The endcaps do not need any special treatment, wipe them clean with a rag and you are good to go. Because the tube is shielded by the baffles or monocore it will just need to be wiped down or gently scrubbed to move any surface carbon. Tube / end caps: These are the easiest parts to clean and get the least of the dirt and grime compared to the other components. Make sure any areas where the baffles meet are spotless to ensure proper alignment when reassembled. If you’re wondering how to clean suppressor baffles, baffles and monocores are usually easy to clean, using a brush and solvent will work just fine on these parts, a plastic pick or non-marring scraping tools can be useful for getting into the corners and other nooks and crannies. These internal structures will contain the bulk of the carbon and lead trapped in your suppressor, and will need to be cleaned to continue to work properly. Monocore / baffles: Depending on your suppressor’s design, the innards of your silencer are either a monocore or baffle setup. All rimfire suppressors and some centerfire suppressors will be user-serviceable, and can be cleaned with an assortment of procedures, just be mindful of the construction materials used in your silencer. User-Serviceable suppressors are easily taken apart into their base components, meaning you have access to all of the parts that may need some sprucing up. Titanium can react with certain solvents, particularly acidic cleaners, so we recommend using more basic solvent like Simple Green. Titanium : Titanium suppressors are known for their lightweight yet durable features, so it can be treated similarly to stainless steel in regard to cleaning methods. Stainless steel suppressors can withstand just about any cleaning method, but we recommend being mindful of the solvents you are using, the coating on your silencer may not be so resilient. 
Stainless steel : Suppressors constructed of stainless steel are more durable when shooting and when cleaning.Using harsh suppressor cleaner solvents, ultrasonic cleaners, or abrasive tumblers can cause erosion and pitting which is detrimental to the aluminum baffles. Aluminum : Aluminum is incredibly lightweight and can be very durable in certain applications, but aluminum does not have the same strength of steel and can be susceptible to damage if improperly maintained.* “The Dip” is highly toxic and can cause bodily harm if performed or disposed of incorrectly, Silencer Shop does not recommend this method.
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